Renogy 200 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Panel Starter Kit with 2 Pcs 100W Monocrystalline Solar Panel and 30A PWM Charge Controller for RV,…
$234.99
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Description
- [Wide Application] 800Wh daily output depends on the 4 hours sunlight availability.This panel is suited for applications that require a smaller footprint, making it a favorite for those with RVs, campers, and more!
- [Excellent Performance] 21% High solar cell efficiency. Corrosion-resistant aluminum frame for outdoor use, allowing the panels to last for decades as well as withstand high winds (2400Pa) and snow loads (5400Pa)
- [Multiple Protection] Renogy Wanderer-Li is a 30A PWM solar charge controller that integrates efficient PWM charging to increase battery life and improve system performance. It can prevent the battery from over charge, over voltage, discharge and short circuit, reversed polarity protection
- [Easy Installation] Pre-drilled holes and Plug&Play cables on the back allow for fast mounting。And it supports 3 types of batteries:lithium batteries, lead-acid batteries, gel batteries
- [Warranty] 5 year warranty and 24/7 technical support team, contact us through Amazon whatever any questions or concerns you have
, Renogy 200 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Panel Starter Kit with 2 Pcs 100W Monocrystalline Solar Panel and 30A PWM Charge Controller for RV,…, 304.47, USD,
Additional information
| Product Dimensions | 47.3 x 21.3 x 1.4 inches |
|---|---|
| Item Weight | 16.34 pounds |
| Manufacturer | Renogy |
| Country of Origin | Thailand |
| Item model number | KIT-STARTER200D |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
English
dennis pryor –
I did a bunch of calculations beforehand on my solar needs, and tried to be extremely conservative as I would be spending a large amount of my time in my RV, but these panels don’t really put out too much. I have never had other panels, so maybe I am not as qualified to say, but based on everyone else’s reviews etc. I was fully expecting these to keep up with my very light battery usage. At first, I was concerned that my RV had a big electric draw somewhere, but after breaking out my voltmeter, I realized there were no problems with anything. The only problem was the lack of electricity flowing from the panels to the batteries. Oh well.
For reference- I have had these installed since October 2017, with my only real testing on NYC streets. I don’t pay too much attention to my battery health when I am on trips etc. because the engine on the RV is charging them up to capacity!
That being said, they do definitely work. I just felt mislead by the output on the label.
Edit: now, I am better educated and have a lot more experience. These panels are fine, a little expensive, but fine. If there is any shade on any solar panel, it totally ruins the output of the panel. Close to 90% power loss, even if there’s one leaf blocking a few sections. Crazy how it works. Anyways, the panels work fine. If you do the research, you can build a much better kit on your own for the same money. For example, I have since added 600watts of solar, to my battery setup for about $500 total (panels, wires, connectors, charge controller etc.)
JTFC6 –
I installed this kit in my motor home to eliminate having to run the generator or plug in to shore power every couple of days. I would recommend adding an inline fuse and a cutoff switch if you purchase this kit. Everything included from Renogy was packaged securely and all components seem to work as expected. This was my first solar install and I had no background in this technology so I watched a few YouTube videos to get an idea of how others were doing their installs. Overall I am very happy with this product.
J. Bowman –
Installed this system on my Toy Hauler RV. It is keeping the two batteries charged very nicely. We can watch a movie at night, and the batteries are fully charged by the next evening. I suspect we could watch a couple of movies, but I haven’t done this yet. We use LED light bulbs throughout the RV to reduce consumption. I wish more people would go solar and use their generators less. Solar won’t power the microwave or air conditioner, but it powers everything else.
Some people complain about the controller, but I think it does fine. The complaint is that it doesn’t have a meter to show voltage or current. In my opinion, you only want this in the beginning to see how efficient your system is. The controller has LEDs that show when it is charging and when it is in maintenance charge mode (batteries full). I have an inexpensive volt meter that plugs into the 12 volt outlet. Good enough for me.
Do not buy the huge fuse holder and 100A fuses that appear as “Items other people bought with this.” The correct fuses are 15A and 30A, and you can use standard automotive fuse holders. There is an inexpensive meter that appears when you purchase this, and I recommend that you fully read the instructions and develop a plan before buying it. This meter can only tell you what is happening at the point of installation. For example, some people install this between the panels and the controller (shows panel output), between the controller and the batteries (shows controller output), or between the batteries and the load (shows what the appliances are actually using from the battery). In my opinion, the last application is the only one I care about on an ongoing basis, and the installation for this application is independent of the solar install.
Also, take the time to look up the recommended roof attachment procedures for your type of roof. I have an EPM roof, so I looked at the manufacturer videos for attaching a fan to an EPM roof and used those as a guide. I was surprised to learn that butyl tape is the first line of defense and the self-leveling caulk was the second line of defense. If the roof leaks, dry rot will likely follow, and that can be expensive at best or ruin the RV.
Some people commented that the connectors are difficult to separate, but there is an inexpensive tool you can buy at checkout to make this easy.
The instructions say to hook up the solar panels last or cover them so they don’t produce a charge until after they are connected to the controller. I cut cardboard covers from the shipping box and taped them to the panels. This allowed me to lay out everything before the final attachment.